Index
accessory, as term, 2–3 adultery, 127, 147 aesthetics and commodification, 161, 163–66, 171, 176 feminist, 212–13 Western, 110–11, 131, 143 Algeria, 79, 94, 197–98 Alhoy, Maurice, Physiologie de la lorette, 38–40 Ancien Régime. See Old Regime aristocracy, 24, 26, 147, 149–50, 159–60, 175 See also identity, essential; Old Regime Atala (Chateaubriand), 133–34, 235nn34–35 aumônière, 61, 179, 187–90, 191, 195 See also bourse de la mariée; sac à main authenticity, 29–30, 82, 91, 103, 161–71, 219n29 See also social mobility Autre étude de femme (Balzac), 9, 21–26, 29, 43, 104 Avant-Propos (Dumas fils), 12–13 Avril, Paul, 112–13 ballantine, 200 balls. See éventail, and balls Balzac, 9–10, 12–13, 217n10, 219n26, 225nn20–21, 229n14, 242n37, 243n54 Autre étude de femme, 20–22, 23, 29, 43, 104 La Bourse, 199–200 Le Contrat de mariage, 61–70, 73 Le Cousin Pons, 162–71, 243n53, 244n55 La Cousine Bette, 94–98, 197–98, 229n19 Ferragus, 27–29 Le Lys dans la vallée, 135–38, 236n39 Baronne Staffe, 57, 60, 65, 115, 159, 211–13, 239n13, 252n3 Les Hochets féminins, 211–12 Secrets pour plaire et pour être aimée, 195 Barthes, Roland, 15, 19, 222 Baudelaire, Charles, 15–16, 139, 220n36 beauty. See aesthetics Benjamin, Walter, 15–16, 30, 81 Au Bonheur des Dames (Zola), 119–120, 171–73, 176, 181, 191, 194, 202–6, 251n45 Bourdieu, 15, 18, 97 bourgeois visage, 133, 139 See also whiteness bourgeoise, 25, 104, 131, 189 La Bourse (Balzac), 199–200 bourse de la mariée, 179, 184–87, 197, 202. See also aumônière; sac à main brideprice, 60-61, 187, 224n18 cachemire and colonialism, 5–6, 79–83, 96, 105–6, 228nn9, 11 and corbeille de mariage, 75, 84, 88 and distinction. See distinction, and cachemire and the domestic, 80, 83–84, 86, 228n11 and economic associations, 79, 86, 90 and eroticism, 80–84, 86, 99, 103 and the exotic, 79–81, 83–84, 95 history of, 83–91 and male power, 80, 81–82, 86 and marriage, 88–89, 102 and moral associations, 79, 84, 88 office of verification of, 91 i n de x Index 274 and the Orient, 80, 82–88, 94–95, 99, 103, 105–6 and respectability, 84, 89–90, 102 and social mobility, 81–82 as symbol of conquest, 80–81, 84 as symbol of virtue, 84, 88, 94, 102 See also Ternaux shawl Le Cachemire, ou l’étrenne à la mode (Dubois), 88–89 capitalism, 14, 108 “cashmere fever,” 6, 80–81, 100 charity, 187, 189–91, 195, 249n24 Chateaubriand, Francois-René de, Atala, 133–34, 235nn34–35 châtelaine, 187, 247n8 cigar case, 145–46, 158–59, 237n1 Circassienne. See white harem girl class and the authentic, 161 and clothing, 17–18, 242n38 and distinction, 15 and ombrelle. See ombrelle, and class and sac à main. See sac à main, and class Code Civil, 21, 51, 213, 225n21, 224n8, 233n13 collecting, art, 161, 164–66 colonialism, 4, 5–6, 112 See also cachemire, and colonialism; women, and colonialism comédie des diamants, 67–69, 226n28 “comme il faut,” 22–23, 24, 28 commodified authentic, 149, 161–71, 239n11 consumer economy, 17, 19, 72, 83, 105, 251nn45, 51 consumption female, 7, 83, 86, 161, 164–65, 168, 170, 173, 233n14, 242n41 luxury, 17, 72, 178–79 male, 161, 233n14 woman as object of, 168, 170, 179, 204 See also sac à main, and female consumption Le Contrat de mariage (Balzac), 61–70, 73 corbeille de mariage as bribe, 54 as capital, 54, 60 and cashmere shawl, 45–46, 72–73, 75 contents of, 45–46, 49, 51, 53 display of, 49, 55, 60, 71 and distinction. See distinction, and corbeille de mariage erotic connotations of, 46, 55, 56, 71–72, 75 and female behavior, 46, 54, 66, 72 history of, 49–54, 223n6 and marriage, 48–49, 54, 56–57, 60–62, 71, 73, 75, 179 and marriage contract, 46, 50, 60, 70–71 See also Balzac, Le Contrat de mariage moral associations of, 53–54, 73, 75 and oriental goods, 72 and pleasure, 54, 72 and respectability, 48, 53–54, 71–73, 75 as rite of passage, 50, 55, 57, 60, 71 and trésor, 46, 56, 60. See also trésor “La Corbeille de mariage” (Gyp), 75, 214 corset, 41, 127, 222n58 cosmetics. See make-up courtesans, 12, 31, 44, 221n43 Le Cousin Pons (Balzac), 162–71, 243n53...
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