Zoot Suit: The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style

Index

I N D E X Page numbers in italics indicate photographs and illustrations. Abrahams, Robert, 98 African American newspapers: criticism of zoot suiters, 80–84, 85; debates on meaning of zoot suit, 149–50; editorial cartoons, 80–82, 81, 84, 84–85; Los Angeles zoot suit riot, 1, 125–26; mail-order and menswear advertisements, 30–31, 39, 41; public letters to, 149–50; wartime zoot suiters, 76, 77, 80–85; and WPB restrictions, 39, 83, 89 African American zoot suiters, 28, 33, 46, 52, 78, 120; celebrities and screen stars, 45–47; college students and professionals, 54–55, 78, 78, 122; controversiality for community leaders, 69–70, 83–84; dance crazes, 25, 51, 52, 58–60, 79, 79; editorial cartoons , 80–82, 81, 84, 84–85; film depictions and racial stereotypes, 92–97; Harlem ‘‘drapes’’ (1930s), 24–26; Harlem ‘‘sharpies,’’ 45–47, 46; Los Angeles zoot suit riot, 115–16, 120, 121–23; leisure pursuits and entertainment districts, 51–53; lesbians and men’s clothing, 74; mailorder and advertisements, 30–32, 39; movie cartoons, 92–93, 96–97; political readings and implications, 3, 10–11, 115– 16, 149–50, 155–56; postwar, 183–84; psychology and youth culture studies, 138–39, 141–44; semi-custom tailoring, 30; war production workers, 57, 61, 83– 84, 107, 126–27; wartime popular culture, 77–85, 92–97, 95, 99–100; white tailors and garment industry, 25–27, 45 Afro-Cuban zoot suiters, 163 Alexander, Franz, 133–34 Alvarez, Luis, 8 ‘‘American cut,’’ 22 An American Dilemma (Myrdal), 138 ‘‘American drapes,’’ 22, 165, 166, 170–73 American Me (film), 189 American Me (Griffith), 154 American popular culture and zoot suits: Depression-era drape cut fashions, 22, 47; Eastern bloc countries, 173, 178; Ellington ’s 1941 Jump for Joy, 86–87; European youths, 165–66, 181; exported Hollywood films, 165–66, 173, 181; gangster movies and film noir, 163–65; garment industry celebrity ‘‘tie-ins,’’ 22–23; movie cartoons, 92–93, 96–97; post-1960 scholarly reapprisal , 188–89; racist stereotypes, 92–97; songwriters, 92; ‘‘Soundies,’’ 93–94; South African tsotsis, 163–65; white film comedians , 96; World War II years, 92–97, 95; worldwide spread, 163–66, 173, 178, 181 American Youth Commission of the American Council on Education, 138 Anderson, Eddie ‘‘Rochester,’’ 93 Anderson, Indiana, 55, 60–61 Andrews Sisters, 96, 98 Andrex (André Jaubert), 169, 171 Annunziata, Joseph, 104–5 Apparel Arts (trade magazine), 22 Arenas, Arthur, 48, 54, 69 Armstrong, Henry, 45 Around Harlem (Shearer), 80 Atkins, Ollie, 60, 97 Atlanta Daily World, 82, 83, 184 228 Index Austrian ‘‘schlurfs,’’ 166 The Authoritarian Personality (Adorno et al.), 154–55 The Autobiography of Malcolm X, 11, 51, 67–68 Avery, Tex, 96, 189 Ayres, Edward Duran, 135, 150, 152 Bagley, David W., 118, 125, 126 Bagnato, Vito, 25 Bahamian zoot suiters, 163 Bailey, Mildred, 90 Baltimore Afro-American, 36, 39, 89 Baltimore zoot suiters, 29–31, 40, 130, 184 Banay, Ralph S., 140, 148 Bantu World (newspaper), 164–65 Barbera, Joseph, 96 Barela, Alfred, 10, 115 Barker, George Carpenter, 185 Barker, James, 141–42 Beaumont, Texas, 1, 110 Beebe, Lucius, 45, 47 behavioral science. See zoot suit phenomenon (scholarly approaches) Belyaev, D., 174 Benedict, Ruth, 145, 152 Berger, Meyer, 27 Bethune-Cookman College (Daytona Beach, Florida), 78, 78 Bibb, Joseph D., 84, 134 bikiniarze (‘‘bikini boys’’), 3, 177–80 Birmingham School (Centre for Contemporary Cultural Studies at the University of Birmingham), 5–7 Blank, Irving, 28–29 Blankson Clothes (New York City), 28 Bogardus, Emory S., 133, 141, 151 ‘‘Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy’’ (song), 98 Born to Dance (1936), 168 Bougere, Joseph, 148 Bowery Boy, 18, 19 Bowron, Fletcher, 135–36 Bright, Brenda, 186 Broadway Melody of 1936 (film), 168 Brown, James, 55 Brown, Karl, 179 Brown, Sterling, 99–100 Brown v. Board of Education (1954), 142 Burley, Dan, 82, 156, 183–84 Burton’s clothing store (Los Angeles), 39 Cabin in the Sky (film), 93, 163, 164, 181 Cagney, James, 22 California Eagle, 54, 117, 125, 137 California menswear and sportswear manufacturers , 23, 24 Calloway, Cab, 2, 47, 59, 86, 92, 94–95, 160 caló (hybrid slang), 48–50, 72 Campbell, E. Simms, 80 Canadian zoot suiters, 157, 160–63 Capp, Al, 101–3 ‘‘CARA: Chicano Art, Resistance and Affirmation ,’’ 188 Caribbean zoot suiters, 162–63 Carlyle, J. V. D., 39, 146–47 Carlyle, Thomas, 18 cartoons and zoot suit phenomenon: editorial cartoons, 80–82, 84, 84–85, 85, 89–90, 100; movie cartoons and racist stereotypes, 92–93, 96...