N O T E S The following abbreviations are used in the notes: American Journal of Sociology AJS Atlanta Daily World ADW Baltimore Afro American Afro California Eagle Eagle Chicago Defender Defender Chicago Tribune Chi.Trib. Hartford Courant HC Los Angeles Examiner Examiner Los Angeles Times LAT Men’s Apparel Reporter MAR New York Amsterdam News NYAN New York Times NYT Philadelphia Tribune Phila.Trib. Pittsburgh Courier Courier Wall Street Journal WSJ War Production Board WPB Washington Post WP Introduction 1. Frank Walton, Thread of Victory (New York: Fairchild Publishing, 1945), 124; Ralph Ellison, ‘‘Editorial Comment,’’ Negro Quarterly (Winter–Spring, 1943): 301; Octavio Paz, ‘‘The Pachuco and Other Extremes,’’ in The Labyrinth of Solitude: Life and Thought in Mexico, trans. Lysander Kemp (New York: Grove Press, 1961), 14. 2. Luis Valdez, Zoot Suit and Other Plays (Houston: Arte Publico Press, 1992), 25. 3. See, for example, Shane White and Graham J. White, Stylin’: African American Expressive Culture from Its Beginnings to the Zoot Suit (Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University Press, 1998); Robin D. G. Kelley, ‘‘The Riddle of the Zoot: Malcolm Little and Black 194 Notes to Pages 3–6 Cultural Politics During World War II,’’ in Race Rebels: Culture, Politics, and the Black Working Class (New York: Free Press, 1994), 161–82; Bruce M. Tyler, ‘‘Black Jive and White Repression,’’ Journal of Ethnic Studies 16 (1989): 31–66; Douglas Henry Daniels, ‘‘Los Angeles Zoot: Race ‘Riot,’ the Pachuco, and Black Music Culture,’’ Journal of African American History 87 (Winter 2002): 98–118. 4. Early publications include Mauricio Mazón, The Zoot-Suit Riots: The Psychology of Symbolic Annihilation (Austin: University of Texas Press, 1984); Stuart Cosgrove, ‘‘The Zoot-Suit and Style Warfare,’’ History Workshop Journal 18 (1984): 77–91. Among recent works, see Eduardo Obregón Pagán, Murder at the Sleepy Lagoon: Zoot Suits, Race, and Riot in Wartime LA (Chapel Hill: University of North Carolina Press, 2003); Luis Alvarez, The Power of the Zoot: Youth Culture and Resistance During World War II (Berkeley: University of California Press, 2008); Catherine S. Ramı́rez, The Woman in the Zoot Suit: Gender, Nationalism, and the Cultural Politics of Memory (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 2009). For dissertations, see Susan Marie Green, ‘‘Zoot Suiters: Past and Present’’ (Ph.D. diss., University of Minnesota, 1997); David Alfonso-Jose Rojas, ‘‘The Making of Zoot Suiters in Early 1940s Mexican Los Angeles’’ (Ph.D. diss., University of California, Berkeley, 2001); James Terence Sparrow , ‘‘Fighting over the American Soldier: Moral Economy and National Citizenship in World War II’’ (Ph.D. diss., Brown University, 2002); Elizabeth Rachel Escobedo, ‘‘Mexican American Home Front: The Politics of Gender, Culture, and Community in World War II Los Angeles’’ (Ph.D. diss., University of Washington, 2004). Solomon James Jones, ‘‘The Government Riots of Los Angeles, June 1943’’ (M.A. thesis, University of California—Los Angeles, 1969), was an influential, if unpublished, work. 5. See the useful analyses in Rogers Brubaker and Frederick Cooper, ‘‘Beyond ‘Identity,’’’ Theory and Society 29 (February 2000): 1–47; Jocelyn A. Hollander and Rachel L. Einwohner, ‘‘Conceptualizing Resistance,’’ Sociological Forum 19 (December 2004): 533–54; Mary Bucholtz, ‘‘Youth and Cultural Practice,’’ Annual Review of Anthropology 31 (2002): 525–52. 6. Chris Jenks, Subculture: The Fragmentation of the Social (London: Sage Publications , 2005); Garth S. Jowett, Ian C. Jarvie, and Kathryn H. Fuller, Children and the Movies: Media Influence and the Payne Fund Controversy (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1996); James Gilbert, A Cycle of Outrage: America’s Reaction to the Juvenile Delinquent in the 1950s (New York: Oxford University Press, 1986), chap. 2; Grace Palladino, Teenagers: An American History (New York: Basic Books, 1996), 48–94. 7. On the history of the concept of subculture, see F. Dubet, ‘‘Subculture, Sociology of,’’ International Encyclopedia of the Social and Behavioral Sciences (Amsterdam: Elsevier, 2004), 15,245–47; Jenks, Subculture; Ken Gelder and Sarah Thornton, eds., The Subcultures Reader (London: Routledge, 1997). 8. Ellison, ‘‘Editorial Comment,’’ 301. The Birmingham School’s early treatment of culture and style appears in Stuart Hall and Tony Jefferson, eds., Resistance Through Rituals (London: Hutchinson, 1976). On the development of this perspective, see Dennis L. Dworkin, Cultural Marxism in Postwar Britain: History, the New Left, and the [3.85.167.119] Project MUSE (2024-03-29 10:23 GMT) Notes to Pages 6–11 195 Origins of Cultural Studies (Durham, N.C.: Duke University Press, 1997); David Harris, From Class Struggle to the Politics of Pleasure: The Effects of Gramscianism on Cultural Studies...