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62 California Pasture Black Angus grazing wheat-blond grass, a stock tank, windmill turning against the sky, like any Western range, except this pasture drops off at an ocean. Are a California cow’s desires the same as one from Kansas or Wyoming? Does it dream of bellying into the surf instead of escaping to a county road? Does it rest its dewlap on the top strand of the fence and lust for stacks of kelp as landlocked cattle fantasize downwind from circles of sweet, first-cutting hay? The seaside cows could lick the air for salt. Their steaks must flake away from the bone. ...

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