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g l o s s a r y Except as noted, de>nitions in quotation marks are from S. F. A. Caulfeild and Blanche A. Saward, Dictionary of Needlework, 2nd ed. (London: A. W. Cowan, 1887). Aniline dye. The >rst synthetic dye, based on coal tar, introduced in the mid-nineteenth century . Antimacassar. Textile attached to the upper back of a chair or sofa to protect it from hair (macassar) oil. Appliqué. “A French term, signifying the sewing of one textile over another.” Aran knitting. A type of ornate, raised knitting, typically with groups of stitches crossed over each other to form cables, in heavy wool yarn, thought to have originated in the Aran Islands in Galway Bay on the western coast of Ireland. Assisi work. “A form of counted-thread embroidery based on an ancient Italian tradition where the background is >lled with embroidery stitches and the main motifs are left void, i.e., unstitched . . . Cross-stitch is used for the background, and Blackwork embroidery . . . is then used to outline the motif and create the surrounding decorative scrollwork .” (Wikipedia) Audiophilia. The love of high->delity recorded music and other sound. Backstitch. “In making a running [line of stitches], a stitch is taken back into the material beyond where the thread was last drawn through.” Basting. “Otherwise called Tacking.—Derived from the old German bastan, to sew, or besten, to bind. This term is chie?y employed by tailors, while Tacking is used by women. The term is used to signify the light runnings made by taking up a stitch at long distances successively, to keep the separate portions of a garment or other article in position, preparatory to their being sewn together.” Berlinwork. Counted embroidery worked in wool over Berlin canvas, in which “every two strands . . . are drawn together, thus forming squares, and leaving open spaces for the wool, with which it may be embroidered. It is more easily counted and worked than the ordinary sorts, and is a great improvement upon the old Penelope canvas, the threads of which were woven in equal distance throughout, taking, of course, much more time to count and separate them. It may be procured in almost all widths and all degrees of >neness.” Blackwork. Sometimes called Spanish work, a counted thread technique in black on evenweave fabrics. Bride. “The connecting threads thrown across spaces in all Needle-point Laces, whether imitation or real, and known as Brides, Bride Claires, Coxcombs, Pearls, Legs and Ties. These threads are arranged so that they connect the various solid parts of the lace together .” Also called bars. Candlewicking. A type of raised embroidery, usually on white fabric, using the heavy, loosely spun cotton or linen yarn called candlewick, popular during the Colonial Revival in the United States. Canvaswork. Embroidery worked over a loosely woven fabric in which the number of warp and weft ends per inch are the same. Chain stitch. “A stitch used in Embroidery, Tambour Work, and Crochet. The manner of working it for embroidery is as follows: Bring the needle, threaded, from the back of the material, and form a loop on the right side, and keep this loop steady with the left thumb, return the needle close to where it came out, bring the needle up again in the centre of the loop, and pull the thread evenly up; then form another loop and return the needle as before.” Chenille. “The French for ‘caterpillar.’ A beautiful description of cord employed for embroidery and decorative purposes. The name denotes the appearance of the material, which somewhat resembles that of a hairy caterpillar. It is usually made of silk, is sometimes a combination of silk and wool, and has been made of wool only.” Colado. A type of embroidery and lace hybrid of Philippine origin, traditionally worked on a >ne-weave gauze-like cloth made from pineapple >ber. Counted thread embroidery. Any of many types of embroidery worked over counted warp and weft yarns of the ground fabric, including canvas embroidery (needlepoint) and cross-stitch. Fabrics used for this purpose are called even-weaves. Crewelwork. “Embroidery with worsteds [>ne wool yarns] . . . upon plain materials,” such as linen. Crochet. A method of forming a continuous-weft fabric with a hook and thread or yarn, believed to have been established as a needlework technique in Europe and Britain in the early nineteenth century. Cross-stitch. Also known as marking stitch, a method of crossing one stitch over another on an even-weave fabric to produce a...

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