Curried Cultures: Globalization, Food, and South Asia

Title Page, About the Series, Copyright, Dedication

Curried Cultures California Studies in Food and Culture Darra Goldstein, Editor Curried Cultures Globalization, Food, and South Asia Edited by Krishnendu Ray and Tulasi Srinivas U n i v e r s i t y o f C a l i f o r n i a P r e s s B e r k e l e y L o s A n g e l e s L o n d o n Elizabeth Buettner’s “‘Going for an Indian’: South Asian Restaurants and the Limits of Multiculturalism in Britain” was first printed in slightly different form in The Journal of Modern History, 80(4), 865–901. It is reprinted here with permission. Jayanta Sengupta’s “Nation on a Platter: The Culture and Politics of Food and Cuisine in Colonial Bengal” was first printed in slightly different form in Modern Asian Studies, 44(1), 81–98. It is reprinted here with permission. Krishnendu Ray’s “Global Flows, Local Bodies: Dreams of Pakistani Grill in Manhattan” was printed in different form (and under a different title) in Food, Culture & Society, 14(2) 243–273. University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu. University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd. London, England© 2012 by The Regents of the University of California Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Curried cultures : globalization, food, and South Asia / edited by Krishnendu Ray and Tulasi Srinivas. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. isbn 978–0-520–27011–4 (cloth : alk. paper) isbn 978–0-520–27012–1 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Food—Social aspects—South Asia. 2. Food habits—South Asia. 3. Cosmopolitanism—South Asia. 4. Nationalism—South Asia. 5. Globalization—Social aspects. I. Ray, Krishnendu. II. Srinivas, Tulasi. GT2853.S64C87 2012 394.1'20954—dc23 2011029711 Manufactured in the United States of America 11 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 In keeping with a commitment to support environmentally responsible and sustainable printing practices, UC Press has printed this book on 50-pound Enterprise, a 30% post-consumer-waste, recycled, deinked fiber that is processed chlorine-free. It is acid-free and meets all ansi/niso (z 39.48) requirements. To my mother Rukka Srinivas for stirring in me a fascination for all things gastronomic. To Rudra and Babul for keeping me sane. To Sierra Burnett Clark and Jackie Rohel for all the unacknowledged work. This page intentionally left blank ...