Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making

Notes

notes 215 preface 1. Alberto Capatti and Massimo Montanari, Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History (New York: Columbia University Press, 1999), 106–111; Gillian Riley, The Oxford Companion to Italian Food (New York:Oxford University Press,2007), 318–319. 2. W.S. Stallings Jr., “Ice Cream and Water Ices in 17th and 18th Century England ,” Petits Propos Culinaires 3 (1979):S1–7. one. early ices and iced creams 1.Tom Shachtman,Absolute Zero and the Conquest of Cold (Boston:Houghton Mif- flin, 1999),17. 2. Elizabeth David,Harvest of the Cold Months (New York:Viking Penguin,1995), xii–xvii. 3. Giambattista della Porta,Natural Magick, bk.14,chap.11,“Of Diverse Confections of Wines,” 1658, http://homepages.tscnet.com/omard1/jportac14.html #bk14X1, accessed July 23, 2008. The original was published in Naples in 1558,and it was followed,in 1589,by a much-expanded version.The latter has information about wine freezing in glasses.The online translation is based on an English edition published in London in 1658. 4. David,Harvest of the Cold Months,71–72. 5. Ibid.,60. 6. Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food (Oxford: Oxford University Press,1999),314. 7. Hippocrates,Aphorisms, sec.5,no.24. 8. Anthimus, On the Observance of Foods, trans. and ed. Mark Grant (Totnes, U.K.:Prospect Books,1996),47. 9. Jean-Louis Flandrin,Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present (New York:Columbia University Press,1999),419. 10. David,Harvest of the Cold Months, 68. 11. Ibid.,1. 12. John Evelyn,The Diary of John Evelyn, ed.E. S.de Beer (London:Oxford University Press,1959),239. 13. Fannie Merritt Farmer, The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book (Boston: Little, Brown,1896),365. 14. Sir Thomas Herbert, Travels in Persia, 1627–1629, abridged and edited by Sir William Foster (New York:Robert M.McBride,1929),45,260. 15. James Morier, The Adventures of Hajji Baba of Ispahan (1824; reprint, New York:Hart,1976),152. 16. Jean Chardin,Travels in Persia, 1673–1677 (New York:Dover,1988). 17. Fredrick Nutt, The Complete Confectioner, 4th ed. (1789; reprint, London: Richard Scott,1807),48,60. 18. Today,in England,sherbet is also the name of a sweet,fizzy powder that children suck through a straw or a stick of licorice.Oddly,in Australia, sherbet is a nickname for beer. 19. Iranians make bastani-e gol-o bolbol, a flavorful saffron and rosewater ice cream with tiny cubes of plain frozen cream blended into it for added texture . Paludeh-ye shirazi is an unusual rice-stick sorbet that they serve with sour cherry syrup. The many and varied ices and ice creams of the Middle East are delightful, but the story of their evolution is beyond the scope of this book. 20. C. Anne Wilson, Food and Drink in Britain (Chicago: Academy Chicago Publishers , 1991),169. 21. Bartolomeo Stefani, L’Arte de ben cucinare (1662; reprint, Sala Bolognese, Italy:A.Forni,1983),73. 22. Robert May, The Accomplisht Cook (London: printed for Obadiah Blagrave, 1685),277–290. 23. Davidson,Oxford Companion to Food, 237. 24. Antonio Latini, Lo scalco alla moderna (Napoli: Parrino & Mutii, 1692, 1694; reprint,Milano:Appunti di Gastronomia,1993). 25. Alberto Capatti and Massimo Montanari, Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History (New York:Columbia University Press,1999),213–215. 26. Alfred W. Crosby Jr., The Columbian Exchange: Biological and Cultural Consequences of 1492 (Westport,CT:Greenwood Press,1972),182. 27. Stefano Milioni,Columbus Menu: Italian Cuisine after the FirstVoyage of Christopher Columbus (New York:Italian Trade Commission,1992),13–16. 216 / Notes to Pages 5–11 28. David,Harvest of the Cold Months, 146–147. 29. This information comes from A. Th. Kupffer, Travaux de la Commission pour fixer les mesures et les poids de l’Empire de Russie (St. Petersburg, Russia: Imprimerie de l’Expedition de la Confection des Papiers de la Couronne,1841), 63. Cited in “Caraffa,” Units and Systems of Units, 2001, Sizes, www.sizes .com/units/caraffa.htm,accessed July 21,2008. 30. Sophie D. Coe and Michael D. Coe, The True History of Chocolate (London: Thames and Hudson,1996),125–138. 31. Herbert,Travels in Persia, 45.According to a footnote in the book,“Bun is the Abyssinian name for the coffee plant and its berry;while kahwah (when both ‘coho’ and ‘choava’) is the Arabic equivalent.” Mussulmans are Muslims. 32. Dominique Kassel,“Tout va très bien Madame...