Of Sugar and Snow
A History of Ice Cream Making
Publication Year: 2009
Published by: University of California Press
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Title Page, Copyright
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During the past few years, whenever I told people I was working on a bookabout ice cream, they invariably smiled. Then they told me their ice creamstories. Some described how they struggled to turn the crank of an old-fashioned ice cream maker on a summer afternoon, just so they could lickthe dasher when the ice cream was ready. Peach ice cream was a par tic u lar...
ac know ledg ments
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I am grateful to many individuals without whom, as the saying goes, thisbook could not have been written. They helped with translations, foundbooks and illustrations for me, and read and corrected various drafts of mymanuscript. They also played the important, if more subtle, role of oﬀeringcheer and encouragement along the way. I value each and every one....
oneEarly Ices and Iced Creams
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A royal dinner in seventeenth- century Naples was a dazzling spectacle.The splendor of the décor complemented the magnificence of the foods, tothe delight of the guests. Confectioners seized the opportunity to demon-strate their considerable talents and turned tabletops into showcases oftheir art. They carved hams from ice and displayed them in baskets made...
twoCrème de la Cream
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During the seventeenth and eigh teenth centuries, France set the style inupper- class Eu ro pe an dining and in the making of ices and ice creams. Infact, the first book completely dedicated to ice cream was written by aFrenchman, Monsieur (first name unknown) Emy, and published in Parisin 1768. French cookbooks were being translated and distributed in En g-...
threeIngenious Foreignersand Others
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Italians were celebrated for their ices, and, in turn, they celebrated ices.Italian poets and novelists wrote paeans to ices. Italian confectioners andeven nuns delighted in fooling diners by sending ices to the table dis-guised as slices of turkey, bunches of asparagus, and lush, ripe peaches. YetItalians did not give us the valuable printed guides to their art that French...
fourThe Land of Ice Cream
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En gland lagged behind the continent in ice cream making, and Americalagged behind En gland. In America, until well after the RevolutionaryWar, ice cream was a rarity. Pastry chefs and confectioners were few andfar between. Ice for freezing was not always available and was diﬃcult tostore, even for those who had ice houses. Sugar was expensive. Making...
fiveScreaming for Ice Cream
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When ice cream peddlers began appearing on city streets in the early nine-teenth century, children were no doubt delighted. Adults had a more am-biguous reaction; initially welcoming, their response quickly turned sour.Before long, they questioned the quality of the ice cream, the cleanliness ofthe vendor, and the health problems associated with ice cream made in...
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In 1850, Godey’s Lady’s Book called ice cream “one of the necessary luxuriesof life” and proclaimed that “a party, or a social entertainment, couldhardly be thought of without this indispensable requisition.” The writerwas trying to persuade readers to buy “a recent valuable invention, in theshape of an ‘ice cream freezer and beater.’ ” According to the article, Masser’s...
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At the turn of the twentieth century, ice cream was one of the country’sbest- loved desserts, and the cone was about to become its constant part-ner. The ice cream cone had originated in the nineteenth century, but itdidn’t become a pop u lar street food until after the 1904 World’s Fair inSaint Louis. Many of the visitors to the fair ate an ice cream cone there for...
eightIce Cream for Breakfast
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When Howard Deering Johnson was a child in Quincy, Massachusetts, heloved the strawberry ice cream his mother made on Sunday afternoons inthe summer. She used fresh cream from the family’s cows and luscious ripestrawberries, and he never forgot the flavor. The years passed, and Johnsongrew up. He served in France during World War I, came back, and worked...
epilogueIndustry and Artistry
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Today, the ice cream business is a vast global enterprise. In fact, it’s so bigthat it’s not called the ice cream business anymore. It’s the frozen dessertbusiness. It includes ice creams, low- fat and nonfat desserts (formerlyknown as ice milks), water ices, sherbets, sorbets, frozen juice bars, frozenyogurts, gelati, and more. Multinational corporations such as Unilever,...
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...1. Alberto Capatti and Massimo Montanari, Italian Cuisine: A Cultural History(New York: Columbia University Press, 1999), 106–111; Gillian Riley, TheOxford Companion to Italian Food (New York: Oxford University Press, 2007),2. W. S. Stallings Jr., “Ice Cream and Water Ices in 17th and 18th Century En -1.Tom Shachtman, Absolute Zero and the Conquest of Cold (Boston: Houghton Mif-...
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Albala, Ken. Eating Right in the Re nais sance. Berkeley: University of CaliforniaAmfitheatrof, Erik. The Children of Columbus: An Informal History of the Italians inAnderson, Carolyn. The Complete Book of Homemade Ice Cream, Milk Sherbet &Anderson, Will. Lost Diners and Roadside Restaurants of New En gland and New York.Anthimus. On the Observance of Foods. Translated and edited by Mark Grant....
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...3. Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, by Marion Nestle5. Safe Food: Bacteria, Biotechnology, and Bioterrorism, by Marion Nestle7. Revolution at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet, by Harvey Levenstein8. Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America, by Harvey9. Encarnación’s Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth- Century California: Selections...
Page Count: 304
Publication Year: 2009
Series Title: California Studies in Food and Culture