Weaving and Dyeing in Highland Ecuador

Notes

Notes Introduction: The Land and the People 1. A convenient English summary of the various Spanish-language sources on Andean geography is provided by Salomon (1986: chap. 1). 2. This historical account of the Incas in Ecuador is based on J. Rowe Ms. 1: Plain Weave on the Backstrap Loom 1. The information includes not only my own observations but also those of Earthwatch volunteers. The information on weaving in Chicticay, Azuay province (as practiced by Celina Calle), and in the Saraguro area is from films taken by Lynn Meisch in 1977–1979. A complete published description of poncho weaving in the Otavalo area (village unspecified) was also consulted (Redwood 1973). 2. Recorded byan Earthwatch team consisting of Maritza Mosquera, Helen Daly, Roberta Siegal, and Leonard Evelev, together with María Aguí and Gail Felzein. 3. The other weaver was reported by Earthwatch volunteers Kathleen Jahnke and Louise Taylor in Riobamba. He said he was originally from Latacunga but had lived in Riobamba for fifty years. 4. This weaver, Luis Martínez, was recorded by Breenan Conterón and Earthwatch teams consisting of Maritza Mosquera, Betty Davenport, Carol Mitz, and Norma Jean Nelson. 5. An Earthwatch team also recorded the use of two needles to finish a poncho half in Guasuntos, on the Pan-American Highway southeast of Alausí, in southern Chimborazo, in 1989.The team consisted of Julio Chérrez S., Jacquelyn Engle, Sandra Baker, and Patricia Meloy. 6. The orthography follows Harrison 1989. Cordero’s dictionary of Ecuadorian Quichua (1967) was also consulted. It should perhaps also be noted that the terms were collected by a variety of people, most of whom are not professional linguists. 7. The following information is taken from reports by Breenan Conterón and Earthwatch volunteers Darby C. Raiser and Carol Holmes, and the accompanying photographs of William H. Holmes. 282 Notes to Pages 49–149 8. This text is based on the Earthwatch team report and photographs made by volunteers Eileen Hallman, Liz Drey, and Jennifer Lantz, July 6, 1989. The team was led by Lynn Meisch. 2: Warp-Resist-Patterned Wool Ponchos and Blankets 1. This section was written by Ann Rowe, based on notes and photographs by Laura Miller. 3: Warp-Resist-Patterned Cotton Shawls and Ponchos 1. Pfyffer (2002: 206) reports that only two families were left in 1997, in Rumipamba de Navas and Cuatro Esquinas. 2. According to the English cotton yarn numbering system, 30 is the number of 840 yard lengths of unplied yarn per pound and 2 means a 2-ply yarn. 3. When asked why she wove, she said that she could earn more as a weaver. She had a partnership with her sister up the road to supply the warps. Her husband had left and she liked being different. 4. This section combines field observations by Laura Miller with information from a videotape taken by Earthwatch volunteer Judith Kelly. 4: Belts with Supplementary-Warp Patterning 1. This section was written by Ann Rowe based on films made by Lynn Meisch. 2. This section was written by Ann Rowe, based on photographs by Lynn Meisch, notes by Earthwatch volunteers Lorraine O’Neal and Emily Marsland, and a loom collected by Meisch for The Textile Museum (The Textile Museum 1988.22.13). 3. This section is based on a report for July 14, 1988, by Breenan Conterón and photographs by Earthwatch volunteers Carol Mitz and Leonard Evelev. Unfortunately , there is no description or photograph of the operation of the underneath heddle rod. 4. Initial reconnaissance of the area was by Mrill Ingram and Ellen Hanley on June 8, 1988. The reports for June 10 were written by Pam Lipscomb and Sara Laas, and the photographs were taken by Bonnie O’Connor. The report on June 13 was written by Breenan Conterón, and the photographs were taken by George Crockett. The town visited on the tenth is identified as Collana and on the thirteenth identified by different project members as Collage, Pilaló, or Quilajaló. However, these places are all in the same general area. The weavers are identified consistently as the Toapanta family. 5. We were introduced to Antonio Cando Camuendo through the courtesy of Humberto Muenala Maldonaldo of Quinchuquí, a friend of Lynn Meisch’s. 6. Earthwatch teams to Ovalos were led by Leslie Grace. I recorded the weaving, but a videotape made by Earthwatch volunteer Elizabeth Drey was also helpful. 7. Jaramillo (1988a) reports that weaving had practically died out...