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Food, Health, and the Environment Series Editor: Robert Gottlieb, Henry R. Luce Professor of Urban and Environmental Policy, Occidental College Keith Douglass Warner, Agroecology in Action: Extending Alternative Agriculture through Social Networks Christopher M. Bacon, V. Ernesto Méndez, Stephen R. Gliessman, David Goodman, and Jonathan A. Fox, eds., Confronting the Coffee Crisis: Fair Trade, Sustainable Livelihoods and Ecosystems in Mexico and Central America Thomas A. Lyson, G. W. Stevenson, and Rick Welsh, eds., Food and the Mid-Level Farm: Renewing an Agriculture of the Middle Jennifer Clapp and Doris Fuchs, eds., Corporate Power in Global Agrifood Governance Robert Gottlieb and Anupama Joshi, Food Justice Jill Lindsey Harrison, Pesticide Drift and the Pursuit of Environmental Justice Alison Alkon and Julian Agyeman, eds., Cultivating Food Justice: Race, Class, and Sustainability Abby Kinchy, Seeds, Science, and Struggle: The Global Politics of Transgenic Crops Sally K. Fairfax, Louise Nelson Dyble, Greig Tor Guthey, Lauren Gwin, Monica Moore, and Jennifer Sokolove, California Cuisine and Just Food California Cuisine and Just Food Sally K. Fairfax, Louise Nelson Dyble, Greig Tor Guthey, Lauren Gwin, Monica Moore, and Jennifer Sokolove with the Assistance of Matthew Gerhart and Jennifer Kao The MIT Press Cambridge, Massachusetts London, England [18.222.184.162] Project MUSE (2024-04-18 00:21 GMT) © 2012 Massachusetts Institute of Technology All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form by any electronic or mechanical means (including photocopying, recording, or information storage and retrieval) without permission in writing from the publisher. MIT Press books may be purchased at special quantity discounts for business or sales promotional use. For information, please email special_sales@mitpress.mit.edu or write to Special Sales Department, The MIT Press, 55 Hayward Street, Cambridge, MA 02142. This book was set in Sabon by Toppan Best-set Premedia Limited, Hong Kong. Printed on recycled paper and bound in the United States of America. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Fairfax, Sally K. California cuisine and just food / Sally K. Fairfax ... [et.al.]. p. cm.—(Food, health, and the environment) Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-262-01811-1 (hardcover : alk. paper)—ISBN 978-0-262-51786-7 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Food habits—California—San Francisco Bay Area. 2. Food preferences—California— San Francisco Bay Area. 3. Gastronomy—California—San Francisco Bay Area. 4. Food industry and trade—California—San Francisco Bay Area. 5. Sustainable agriculture— California—San Francisco Bay Area. 6. San Francisco Bay Area (Calif.)—Social life and customs. I. Title. GT2853.U5F34 2012 394.1'2—dc23 2012008691 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 We dedicate this book to two who are building the next generation in the district, Nikki Henderson and Anya Fernald, and to some of the impressive shoulders on which they stand: Boyd Stewart, Warren Weber, Ellen Straus, Phyllis Faber, Alice Waters, Sibella Kraus, Sue Conley, Peg Smith, Ellie Rilla, and David Evans. [18.222.184.162] Project MUSE (2024-04-18 00:21 GMT) ...