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Everywhere in the world there is a close connection between the clothes we wear and our political expression. To date, few scholars have explored what clothing means in 20th-century Africa and the diaspora. In Fashioning Africa, an international group of anthropologists, historians, and art historians bring rich and diverse perspectives to this fascinating topic. From clothing as an expression of freedom in early colonial Zanzibar to Somali women's headcovering in inner-city Minneapolis, these essays explore the power of dress in African and pan-African settings. Nationalist and diasporic identities, as well as their histories and politics, are examined at the level of what is put on the body every day. Readers interested in fashion history, material and expressive cultures, understandings of nation-state styles, and expressions of a distinctive African modernity will be engaged by this interdisciplinary and broadly appealing volume.

Contributors are Heather Marie Akou, Jean Allman, A. Boatema Boateng, Judith Byfield, Laura Fair, Karen Tranberg Hansen, Margaret Jean Hay, Andrew M. Ivaska, Phyllis M. Martin, Marissa Moorman, Elisha P. Renne, and Victoria L. Rovine.

Table of Contents

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  1. Cover
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  1. TOC
  2. pp. v-vi
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  1. Acknowledgments
  2. p. vii
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  1. Fashioning Africa: Power and the Politics of Dress
  2. pp. 1-10
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  1. 1. Remaking Fashion in the Paris of the Indian Ocean: Dress, Performance, and the Cultural Construction of a Cosmopolitan Zanzibari Identity
  2. pp. 13-30
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  1. 2. Dress and Politics in Post–World War II Abeokuta (WesternNigeria)
  2. pp. 31-49
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  1. 3. Nationalism without a Nation: Understanding the Dress of Somali Women in Minnesota
  2. pp. 50-63
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  1. 4. Changes in Clothing and Struggles over Identity in Colonial Western Kenya
  2. pp. 67-83
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  1. 5. Putting on a Pano and Dancing Like Our Grandparents: Nation and Dress in Late Colonial Luanda
  2. pp. 84-103
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  1. 6. “Anti-mini Militants Meet Modern Misses”: Urban Style, Gender,and the Politics of “National Culture” in 1960s Dar es Salaam,Tanzania
  2. pp. 104-121
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  1. 7. From Khaki to Agbada: Dress and Political Transition in Nigeria
  2. pp. 125-143
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  1. 8. “Let Your Fashion Be in Line with Our Ghanaian Costume”: Nation,Gender, and the Politics of Cloth-ing in Nkrumah’s Ghana
  2. pp. 144-165
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  1. 9. Dressing Dangerously: Miniskirts, Gender Relations, and Sexuality in Zambia
  2. pp. 166-185
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  1. 10. Fashionable Traditions: The Globalization of an African Textile
  2. pp. 189-211
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  1. 11. African Textiles and the Politics of Diasporic Identity-Making
  2. pp. 212-226
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  1. Afterword
  2. pp. 227-230
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  1. List of Contributors
  2. pp. 231-233
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  1. Index
  2. pp. 235-247
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