The Turkey: AN AMERICAN STORY

Part 2: Historical Recipes

Part 2 Historical Recipes Thousands of turkey recipes were published in the United States and the United Kingdom, whether in cookbooks, agricultural and horticultural journals, newspapers, popular magazines, turkey processors’ promotional pamphlets, or a host of other sources. The recipes that follow form a representative sample of historical recipes ; some were selected because they are typical, others because they are unusual. As a collection, they reflect the diversity of turkey recipes. The spelling, grammar, and style of the recipes have been left in their original form. Before the twentieth century, most cookbook authors took for granted a certain level of knowledge, understanding, and experience among readers—as well a good supply of common sense. Instructions in old cookbooks often seem confusing and vague to modern readers accustomed to step-by-step directions accompanied by color photographs. The quintessential example is the phrase “cook until done.” At what heat? a modern reader may wonder. In what shape and size of pan, for how long, and how do you tell when it’s done? These recipes are valuable from a historical standpoint—for what they tell us about the history of the turkey and, more broadly, culinary history. Many, however, can be brought successfully to the table if a cook is willing to allow for some trial and error in the cooking process and for changes wrought in ingredients and kitchen technology by the passage of time. Don’t hesitate to experiment and take up the challenges and joys of turkey cookery. Enjoy! turkey Cookery and Safety Food safety is a serious consideration when cooking turkey. Like all poultry, turkey can be a breeding ground for salmonella bacteria , but proper handling will minimize that risk. Above all, avoid contact between raw turkey and other foods, raw or cooked. Wash your hands before handling any food, and after handling raw turkey , wash your knives, cutting boards, countertops, and sink— whatever the turkey or its juices have touched—with a mild bleach solution. 140 . historical recipes Uncooked poultry should be kept separate from produce and cooked and ready-to-eat food in the refrigerator. Frozen turkeys should not be thawed on the kitchen countertop or in the sink; the temperature of the bird can easily rise above the 40°F considered safe. It’s best to thaw it in the refrigerator on a platter or pan big enough to prevent dripping juices from contaminating other foods. Unfortunately, a big turkey takes up considerable space in the refrigerator , and most people don’t want to wait several days for the bird to thaw. You can speed the process by placing the turkey in a basin of cold water, but the bird should be wrapped in leakproof plastic and the water changed every thirty minutes. When you’re ready to cook the turkey, wash it under cold running water and pat it dry with paper towels. Don’t stuff the bird until you are ready to cook it. For maximum safety, cook the stuffing outside the bird, in a separate pan. Because oven thermostats are frequently inaccurate, most sources recommend inserting a meat thermometer in the outside of the thigh, not touching the bone. When the turkey is done its juices should run clear and there should be no trace of pinkness in the meat. Traditional advice has been to roast the bird at 325° or 350°F; its internal temperature and that of the stuffing needs to reach 165°F. White meat cooks faster than dark, and stuffing cooked in the turkey adds about twenty-five minutes to the cooking time, which dries out the white meat even more. Various methods have been devised to balance the cooking times of different parts of the turkey, such as tenting the bird with foil or shrouding it with cloth. Others cook the bird breast-down and then turn it to a higher oven temperature —450°F—for a shorter cooking time. Still others recommend brining, which through the process of osmosis absorbs marinades such as salt, herbs, and other flavorings. Critics claim that brining puts water (and weight) into the bird but does not add flavor. What does make a turkey more flavorful is to smoke it, and several smokers are on the market for indoor or outdoor use. Frequently , turkeys are brined, smoked, and then heated in a conventional oven. When serving a roast turkey, scoop out all its stuffing at once and don...