Cover

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Half Title, Series Page, Title Page, Copyright, In Memoriam, Quotation

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Contents

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pp. ix-x

List of Plates

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pp. xi-xii

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Acknowledgments

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pp. xiii-xiv

This book has been many years in the making, and during its long evolution I have had invaluable assistance from numerous friends and colleagues. ...

A Note on Transliteration

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pp. xv-xvi

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Chapter One: Introduction

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pp. 3-19

This book is, first of all, a book about a pilgrimage site, the Church of the Madonna of the Annunciation (Evangelístria) on the Aegean island of Tinos, Greece, where I have been conducting research since 1986.1 My account, however, is more than a simple ethnographic description. ...

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Chapter Two: The Pilgrim and the Anthropologist

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pp. 20-33

The summer traveler to Tinos will be struck first by two things about the island-the arid barrenness of the landscape, and the wind. ...

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Chapter Three: The Anthropological Study of Pilgrimage

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pp. 34-48

When I first began my research on pilgrimage at the Church of the Annunciation on Tinos in 1986, the phenomenon was not one that had been well studied by anthropologists. Aside from Victor Turner's works on pilgrimage as ritual and on the place of pilgrimage in the Christian tradition (1974, 1979; Turner and Turner 1978), ...

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Chapter Four: Observing Pilgrimage: Churches, Icons, and the Devil

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pp. 49-75

On the evening of August 12, 1986, at around eight o'clock, I left my apartment on Tinos accompanied by a visitor, my partner and companion Ray, who had come to visit me for six weeks.1 It was Ray's last evening on the island and we had planned a nice dinner at our favorite restaurant. ...

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Chapter Five: Pilgrimage Observed: The Journey and the Vow

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pp. 76-100

Pilgrimage involves by definition a journey of some sort, usually one of enough distance to constitute a hardship, or at least an inconvenience, to the pilgrim.1 With today's rapid and comfortable transportation, however, pilgrimage to Tinos cannot be considered too great an ordeal (though on major holidays the crowded passenger ships can make the journey an uncomfortable one, ...

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Chapter Six: The Observer Observed

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pp. 101-119

My own "vow" reflects a particularly complex, long-term, and even intimate relationship with a certain set of religious practices. As I look back on my earlier fieldwork, I realize that religion was part of my experience of Greek life almost from my first days in the village. This is illustrated by an entry in my journal on August 4, 1969, ...

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Chapter Seven: An Island in Space, an Island In Time

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pp. 120-133

So far I have brought both the pilgrim and the anthropologist to Tinos and have described something of the activities of each at the pilgrimage site. These activities are located within two larger fields: the practices and beliefs of the Greek Orthodox religion on the one hand, and the practices and beliefs of anthropology on the other. ...

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Chapter Eight: Writing the Story/History of the Church: The Panayía and the Nun

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pp. 134-155

On July 9, 1822, an elderly nun named Pelayia, who lived at the monastery of Kekhrovouno on the island of Tinos, had a vision. This vision appeared to her in the form of a woman surrounded by light who came to the nun as she slept. This lady approached Pelayia's humble bed, and speaking to her, told the nun to go to the epítropos of the monastery ...

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Chapter Nine: Of Nations and Foreigners, Miracles and Texts

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pp. 156-192

In the early 1880s an Englishman named James Theodore Bent made a tour of the islands of the Cyclades. He visited Tinos twice on his travels, once to attend the festival of the Annunciation on March 25, and the second time, not quite a year later, to tour the island. Unlike many such travelers to Greece, ...

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Chapter Ten: Women, Performance, and Pilgrimage: Beyond Honor and Shame

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pp. 193-228

On a warm morning in July 1986, I left my apartment on Tinos and headed into town to pick up fresh bread for breakfast at a nearby bakery. My walk took me down the road along a low cliff above the sea and then along the waterfront, past a large concrete wharf, restaurants, shops, bars, and stores to the bakery, tucked into a narrow whitewashed alley. ...

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Chapter Eleven: The Virgin Mary and the Body Politic

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pp. 229-249

In May 1990 a woman made a pilgrimage to Tinos in order to fulfill a vow.1 In and of itself, this was an event so common as hardly to be worthy of notice. This particular woman, however, was more famous than most of the pilgrims who come to Tinos. She was a former Olympic airline stewardess and former mistress (and now wife) of the recently defeated Socialist prime minister Andreas Papandreou. ...

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Chapter Twelve: Epilogue: In a Different Place

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pp. 250-258

In June 1993, I returned to Tinos for a short visit. Although I was in Greece for research purposes,1 my trip to the island was not connected to this research. I had simply come to visit friends and to enjoy the island for a few days. I had, however, timed this visit for a particular event: the arrival of an Elderhostel boat at Tinos. ...

Notes

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pp. 259-286

References Cited

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pp. 287-308

Index

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pp. 309-311

About the Author

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