In this Book

summary

In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion—once the province of the well-to-do—began to make its way across class lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, Fashioning the Nineteenth Century focuses on this transformative period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the elites into the emerging middle and working classes—and back.

The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles. Whether considering girls’ school uniforms in provincial Italy, widows’ mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie’s varying dress in Kate Chopin’s eponymous story, or the language of clothing in Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now understand to be the imperatives of fashion.

Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnès Derail-Imbert, École Normale Supérieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Université of Paris, Ouest Nanterre La Défense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan.

Table of Contents

restricted access Download Full Book
  1. Cover
  2. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Title Page, Copyright
  2. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Contents
  2. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Preface and Acknowledgments
  2. pp. xi-xvi
  3. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Clothing, Dress, Fashion: An Arcade
  2. pp. xvii-xxiv
  3. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Introduction: Fashioning a Century
  2. Cristina Giorcelli
  3. pp. 1-11
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 1 Psychoanalytic Views of Cross-Dressing and Transvestism
  2. Bianca Iaccarino Idelson
  3. pp. 12-22
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 2 Our Job Is to Create Beauty: A personal Memoir of La Perla
  2. Anna Masotti
  3. pp. 23-28
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 3 Modernity Clothing: Birthing the Modern Atlantic/Birthing the Modern Republic
  2. Carroll Smith-Rosenberg
  3. pp. 29-51
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 4 Garment of the Unseen: The Philosophy of Clothes in Carlyle and Emerson
  2. Giuseppe Nori
  3. pp. 52-81
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 5 An Emblem of All the Rest: Wearing the Widow's Cap in Victorian Literature
  2. Dagni Bredesen
  3. pp. 82-105
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 6 Clothing the Marmorean Flock: Sartorial Historicism and The Marble Faun
  2. Bruno Monfort
  3. pp. 106-129
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 7 Florence
  2. Beryl Korot
  3. pp. 130-134
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 8 Accessories to the Crime in What Maisie Knew
  2. Clair Hughes
  3. pp. 135-155
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 9 Costume and Form: D'Annunzio and Mutable Appearance
  2. Marta Savini
  3. pp. 156-180
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 10 Redefining American Womanhood: Shawls in Nineteenth-Century Literature
  2. Anna Scacchi
  3. pp. 181-209
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 11 A Lovely Little Coffee-Colored Dress: Education, Female Identity, and Dress in Late Nineteenth-Century Italy
  2. Carmela Covato
  3. pp. 210-228
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 12 Gender and Power: Dressing "Charlie"
  2. Cristina Giorcelli
  3. pp. 229-259
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. 13 Imaginative Habits: Fantasies of Undressing in The Ambassadors
  2. Agnès Derail-Imbert
  3. pp. 260-276
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Coda: Seen and Obscene
  2. Paula Rabinowitz
  3. pp. 277-286
  4. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Contributors
  2. pp. 287-289
  3. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download
  1. Image Plates
  2. restricted access
    • Download PDF Download

This website uses cookies to ensure you get the best experience on our website. Without cookies your experience may not be seamless.