Cover

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pp. C-C

Title Page, Copyright Page

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pp. i-vi

Contents

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pp. vii-viii

List of Figures

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pp. ix-x

Acknowledgments

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pp. xi-xiv

A Note on Transliteration

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pp. xv-xvi

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INTRODUCTION: Tibet, Trade, and Territory

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pp. 1-26

The temporal rhythms of cities are marked not just by seasonal changes but also by variations in trading practices. In the transition from autumn to winter in Lhasa, the tourists who buy trinkets from the marketplace vendors that are common in the height of summer begin to peter out until they are almost completely absent. The luxury hotels grow quieter. There is a momentary, almost ...

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CHAPTER ONE: Middlemen, Marketplaces, and Maps

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pp. 27-51

The Tibet Mirror (yul phyogs so so’i gsar ’gyur me long), a twentieth- century Tibetan- language newspaper published in Kalimpong, had commodity listings in nearly every issue of the newspaper from its start in 1925 until its demise in 1963. These listings gave its readers an idea of what the “market prices in Gold and Silver from Calcutta” looked like, as well as the prices of common items brought...

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CHAPTER TWO: From Loom to Machine

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pp. 52-83

In a book based on the memoirs of Newar merchants who conducted business between Lhasa, Kathmandu, and Kalimpong in the first half of the twentieth century, Kamal Tuladhar writes of his family’s shop in Lhasa: “English woolens, Japanese velvet, Chinese silk, Nepalese cottons, and Indian brocade . . . filled the shelves. Coral was imported from Italy, turquoise from Iran, and brick tea from ...

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CHAPTER THREE: Silk Roads and Wool Routes

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pp. 84-99

It is a clear weekend afternoon in Kalimpong, a town of about 43,000 mostly Nepali-speaking inhabitants in the mountainous, northernmost tip of West Bengal.1 The rhododendrons are glaringly bright against the green foliage and the Himalayas hover on the horizon; it is especially pleasant aft er months of heavy monsoon rain, moldy clothes, and the sporadic landslides that prevented...

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CHAPTER FOUR: Reopenings and Restrictions

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pp. 100-121

I begin this chapter with two scenes that take place at border crossings.
1. Nathu-la. For decades, the hills of North Bengal and Sikkim have provided a cool escape for many middle- class tourists (and formerly, British colonists) during the stifl ing Indian summers. Although currently restricted to Indian citizens with special one- day permits, one common scenic destination is the ...

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CHAPTER FIVE: New Economic Geographies

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pp. 122-140

Written more than a half century ago, Owen Lattimore’s statement seems remarkably prescient. During my fi eldwork in 2006, in addition to the reopening of Nathu-la, other major eff orts to build up infrastructure and industrial centers in the “deep hinterlands” of inner Asia were well under way. As part of the long- term economic vision of the PRC to “Develop the West,” plans were being...

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CHAPTER SIX: Mobility and Fixity

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pp. 141-152

I heard the phrase “Delhi doesn’t understand” yet again from a Sikkimese extrader- turned- teacher toward the end of my stay in India. Aft er a long conversation that focused mostly on teaching and education in the region, we moved on to discuss a story he had heard in 2002 about a refugee mother and two ...

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A Further Note on Research Methods

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pp. 153-156

My research methodology warrants a bit more explanation than has been given in the body of this book. Here, I briefly touch on some issues regarding surveillance, research permits and visas, interview languages, and the specter of illicitness and smuggling. Anthropologists tend to spend a significant amount of time living with local families in order to gain cultural insights that might...

Notes

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pp. 157-162

References

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pp. 163-176

Index

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pp. 177-192