Food, Drink, and Connoisseur Culture
Publication Year: 2011
Published by: University of Nebraska Press
Series: At Table
This book is about taste. As such, its principal focus is one of the more slippery terms in the English language. Although our interest here is taste as it relates to food and drink, an important starting point is to recognize that the terminology of taste is frequently used in domains...
Part One: Learning to Taste
1. Feeding Finn
I wanted to raise my children with taste—to have taste, that is, good taste in food. And unlike many stories of boy-meets-beet, the story begins well....
2. The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food: The Establishment of Soviet Haute Cuisine
Cultural politics were an essential and important part of the building of socialism in the Soviet Union. Socialist society—and even more so the coming Communist society—demanded not only the industrialization of the country...
3. The Flavor of the Place: Eating and Drinking in Payottenland
The popular image of Flanders is of a flat and somewhat bland landscape. The north of Flanders does little to belie this stereotype. Driving south from Dunkirk, there is little topography, and what little exists is usually the result...
4. National Tastes: Italy and Food Culture
Few would doubt the importance of food to Italian national and cultural identity. Food is widely recognized to be a fundamental part of what it means to be Italian. National signature dishes—which actually originated in the Italian cities, regions, or localities—provide many...
5. Teaching Wine Tasting
Much of my professional time these days is spent teaching others about wine and its pleasures. I am careful always to put this civilizing drink in the context of food, where I believe it belongs. I was first introduced to the pleasures of wine drinking in the 1960s, when no one in Britain could have...
Part Two: Theorizing andContextualizing Taste
6. The (Extensive) Pleasures of Eating
This passage made me frantic the first time I read it. After thinking about it for a while, I came up with the following set of interconnected reasons why. I begin with the most trivial (and most tangential), and tack my way into the more important, which will be the topic of this chapter....
7. A Short Poetics of Cruel Food
What might “cruel food” signify? What dishes, products, and practices might be assembled under such a title? It is uncontroversial to state that for both animals and people there exist countless examples of suffering and injustice...
8. “Los Pajaritos del Aire”: Disappearing Menus and After-Dinner Speaking in Don Quixote
Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra’s Don Quixote was published in Madrid, in two parts—the first in 1605, the second in 1615. It recounts the midlife crisis of Alonso Quijano, a late sixteenthcentury Spanish gentleman of limited means who reads too...
9. Nourishment, Body and Soul: Modern Performers, Diverse Tastes
Music and food enjoy each other’s company to an enormous degree. In fact, having one without the other is, for some, unthinkable. They certainly attract a common vocabulary, with the word taste somewhere near the top of the list. One could easily substitute music for gastronomy
10. Lionizing Taste: Toward an Ecology of Contemporary Connoisseurship
In 1875 a special banquet was prepared at the famed restaurant Magny in Paris. Hosted by the editor of the hunters’ journal La Chasse Illustrée, it featured two dishes that today may well strike the reader as bizarre if not horrifying: an estouffade of lion haunch à la Méridionale and the great beast’s...