Contents

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Foreword

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pp. ix-xii

If you’re looking for hidden kitchen stories, Texas is a good place to start. It’s a state that’s chock full of iconic food with a good story behind it, food that says America. A man with a used potato ricer, some masa, and a dream. It’s the stuff our country is made of. We call them kitchen pioneers and visionaries...

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Acknowledgments

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pp. xiii-xiv

In my family of origin, I am especially thankful to my paternal grandmother, Daisy Dean Doolin, for inventing the concept of cooking with Fritos; to my father, C. E. Doolin, for his ingenuity; to my mother, Mary Kathryn Doolin, for sharing her precious memories with me; to my oldest brother, Charles W....

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Introduction

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pp. xv-xiv

My father, Charles Elmer Doolin, was one of four founders of the Frito Company, the company that made and continues to make Fritos® corn chips along with a variety of other snack foods. Charles Elmer (or “C. E.,” as he was called) Doolin was also the husband of Mary...

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Chapter 1: San Antonio

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pp. 1-11

Corn chips, which are derived from corn masa like that used in tortillas, were originally developed by Gustavo Olguin. My father worked for him as a fry cook for a short time. Olguin had been a soccer coach in his native Mexico. He and his business partner, whose name doesn’t survive...

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Chapter 2: Cooking with Fritos

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pp. 12-30

In 1937 the Frito Company created a point-of-sale department. (“Point of sale” refers to marketing that is used in stores, such as rack headers and recipe folders; the point-ofsale department has since been replaced by two departments, marketing and sales.) The point-of-sale department came up...

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Chapter 3: Frito Kids

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pp. 31-57

My paternal grandparents, Charles Bernard and Daisy Dean Doolin, moved to San Antonio from Kansas City in 1909. They came to Texas because my grandfather’s health required warmer weather—he had a lingering illness that may have been tuberculosis—and because...

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Chapter 4: Diversification

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pp. 58-67

Dad decided to diversify into potato chips and various other snack foods long before he met Herman Lay. I found a letter Dad wrote to his parents (he addresses them as “Papa and Mama”) in 1934, soon after his move to Dallas to open a new headquarters. In the letter he writes, “I experimented...

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Chapter 5: Cattle and Corn

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pp. 68-80

Even though my father is best known as the premier founder of the Frito Company, he had his finger in many pies, and he was an active, creative, and wide-ranging entrepreneur. Hybridizing corn; cross-breeding cattle (Brahma bulls with Black Angus cows, producing a hardier cross-breed...

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Chapter 6: Inventors and Inventions

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pp. 81-94

Dad was constantly coming up with ideas to help sales, and he liked to tinker and invent devices that would improve the business. He and my Uncle Earl learned about patents from my paternal grandfather, C. B. Doolin, a steam engineer who owned a garage where he repaired steam engines...

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Chapter 7: Ronald

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pp. 95-104

I n January 2008 I took a trip to interview my half-brother Ronald Elmer Doolin. Until then, the last time I had seen Ronald was seven years ago and before that, forty-seven years ago. When I met with him recently, I learned a lot of new things about my father and the history of the Frito Company. I knew...

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Chapter 8: Fritos Chili Pie®

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pp. 105-116

According to a newspaper article published in the 1960s, “While recipes are created for Frito-Lay’s entire line of snack products and canned foods, perhaps the most famous recipe developed by the Consumer Service department is that for Fritos Chili Pie.” Fritos Chili Pie, still one...

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Chapter 9: Natural Hygiene

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pp. 117-135

Dad had a weak heart and sought out the advice of Dr. Herbert M. Shelton rather than follow the American Medical Association’s prescribed practices. Shelton graduated from the American School of Naturopathy with two doctoral degrees—one in naturopathy and one in naturopathic literature...

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Chapter 10: Desserts

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pp. 136-146

Alth ough in my family we almost never ate dessert or anything else with refined sugar in it, I was encouraged to learn to bake by my mother and my governess, Mrs. Verna Johnson. My first lesson as a dessert-maker was baking pineapple upside-down cake. Mrs. Johnson taught me how to...

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Chapter 11: Then and Now

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pp. 147-154

I recently met Indra Nooyi for the first time. She is the current CEO of PepsiCo. (Frito Lay merged with PepsiCo in 1965.) PepsiCo is a conglomerate made up of Pepsi, Frito Lay, Tropicana, Quaker, and Gatorade. Having read about Indra in the cover story of the March...

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Chapter 12: Cooking with Fritos Today

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pp. 155-172

I love to update classic recipes. I have been tasting lots of Southwestern foods and developing my own recipes as well as variations on some of the vintage Fritos recipes included in this book. My thinking about cooking has evolved in recent years. And my repertoire of ingredients has grown to include...

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Epilogue

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pp. 173-176

Shortly after Dad’s death, the Frito Company board of directors and executives assembled to ceremoniously honor my father with the reading and presentation to my mother of this proclamation. When Charles Elmer Doolin organized The Frito Company in 1932 it employed four people, making a single product, in a...

Appendix 1: Recommended Reading

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pp. 177-179

Appendix 2: Timelines

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pp. 180-183

Appendix 3: Letter from C.E. Doolin to the Frito Bandwagon

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pp. 184-184

Appendix 4: Doolin Family and Frito Company Patents

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pp. 185-185

Appendix 5: Recipes by Chapter

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pp. 186-188

Appendix 6: Web Sites

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pp. 189-190

Index

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pp. 191-201