In this Book

Producing Fashion
summary

How has Paris, the world's fashion capital, influenced Milan, New York, and Tokyo? When did the Marlboro Man become a symbol of American masculinity? Why do Americans love to dress down in high-tech Lycra fabrics, while they wax nostalgic for quaint, old-fashioned Victorian cottages?

Fashion icons and failures have long captivated the general public, but few scholars have examined the historical role of business and commerce in creating the international market for style goods. Producing Fashion is a groundbreaking collection of original essays that shows how economic institutions in Europe and North America laid the foundation for the global fashion system and sustained it commercially through the mechanisms of advertising, licensing, marketing, publishing, and retailing.

The collection reveals how public and private institutions—from government censors in imperial Russia to large corporations in the United States—worked to shape fashion, style, and taste with varying degrees of success. Fourteen contributors draw on original research and fresh insight into the producers of fashion—advertising agents, architects, corporate executives, department stores, designers, editors, government officials, hairdressers, haute couturiers, and Web retailers—in their bid for influence, acclaim, and shoppers' dollars.

Producing Fashion looks to the past, revealing the rationale behind style choices, while explaining how the interplay of custom, invented traditions, and sales imperatives continue to drive innovation in the fashion industries.

Table of Contents

  1. Cover
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  1. CONTENTS
  2. pp. v-vii
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  1. CHAPTER ONE. Rethinking Fashion
  2. pp. 1-18
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  1. PART I. Organizing the Fashion Trades
  2. p. 19
  1. CHAPTER TWO. Spreading the Word: The Development of the Russian Fashion Press
  2. pp. 21-41
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  1. CHAPTER THREE. Accessorizing, Italian Style: Creating a Market for Milan's Fashion Merchandise
  2. pp. 42-61
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  1. CHAPTER FOUR. In the Shadow of Paris? French Haute Couture and Belgian Fashion Between the Wars
  2. pp. 62-81
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  1. CHAPTER FIVE. Licensing Practices at Maison Christian Dior
  2. pp. 82-107
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  1. PART II. Inventing Fashions, Promoting Styles
  2. p. 109
  1. CHAPTER SIX. The Wiener Werkst├Ątte and the Reform Impulse
  2. pp. 111-129
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  1. CHAPTER SEVEN. American Fashions for American Women: The Rise and Fall of Fashion Nationalism
  2. pp. 130-149
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  1. CHAPTER EIGHT. Coiffing Vanity: Advertising Celluloid Toilet Sets in 1920s America
  2. pp. 150-166
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  1. PART III. Shaping Bodies, Building Brands
  2. p. 167
  1. CHAPTER NINE. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisurewear, 1930-1960
  2. pp. 169-186
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  1. CHAPTER TEN. Marlboro Men: Outsider Masculinities and Commercial Modeling in Postwar America
  2. pp. 187-206
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  1. CHAPTER ELEVEN. The Body and the Brand: How Lycra Shaped America
  2. pp. 207-227
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  1. PART IV. Customer Reactions, Consumer Adaptations
  2. p. 229
  1. CHAPTER TWELVE. French Hairstyles and the Elusive Consumer
  2. pp. 231-249
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  1. CHAPTER THIRTEEN. Ripping Up the Uniform Approach: Hungarian Women Piece Together a New Communist Fashion
  2. pp. 250-272
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  1. CHAPTER FOURTEEN. Why the Old-Fashioned Is in Fashion in American Houses
  2. pp. 273-292
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  1. NOTES
  2. pp. 293-348
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  1. LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS
  2. pp. 349-352
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  1. INDEX
  2. pp. 353-363
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  1. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
  2. p. 365
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